The French call it Pinot Gris and the Croatians Pinot Sivi but it is popular across the world as Pinot Grigio, perhaps too popular for its own good: the higher its production, the more you find flat, characterless wine without the freshness and lingering finish that should set Pinot Grigio apart. Here in Istria’s golden summer of 2011, the grapes ripened early so were harvested early, for all the apple-and-pear fruit you could want but also, with northern position and cooling breezes, all the freshness too. Try it as an aperitif, with a few olives, and discover the classic flavours of single-estate Pinot Grigio as it should be – and the lightness of being Istria.